@warmrain I think I can answer your question. First of all the length of the middle mains is longer than the outer mains. When a string segment loose tension it stretches it self, it's getting longer when it losse tension and elasticity. So a shorter segement don't get much longer compared to a longer segment. Try yourself with a rubberband. A longer rubber band can be stretch more to achieve the same tension than a short one. So tensioning the shorter mains would be more inbalanced. When we weave the string and tie off, wie tie off the outer mains, so if we have a loss of tension, it needs to make it's way from out to the middle. This is hard and maginal because you have a lot of friction. So tensioning the outter mains at higher tension would lead to a higher inbalance. I think the loss will be even out if you string a standard pattern. Also the inner mains got stretched more and more often during hitting, while the outer mains don't flex as much, so I think this whole system even out and that stringing the outer mains higher will more harm the shape than doing good. On physics, we can't say clearly that every string has the same tension. I guess this is not possible and not the aim. We pull the strings at different angles, this strings compress the frame at different angles, so you will never know what amount of force will be applied in which direction over a small area. The racket is not an even shaped element, so we will never know that tension got applied on each segment. We don't need to know all the physics behind it. It's important to keep the shape as close as the unstrung head shape. We use so many things in our daily life and don't question why they work and just use them, I think we also shouldn't overthink the whole stringbed too much. As long everything works fine, we shouldn't ask why, use it as a tool and enjoy our life.
I have a question. If for example I typically use 28lbs of tension. With this technique should I then use 28x30 or 26x28 or 27x29?
Depend on your machine and stringer. Please note, the tension you told your stringer is just a reference point. Unless they use the same high end machine, string job quality different from person to person. I would suggest you start w 26x28lb. Adjust higher or lower next time. Good luck
CowKing, like SilentHeart says, it depends... First of all, a 27x29 lbs job, is called 27, 28 or 29 lbs, by different stringers. Apparently I'm the only one here who would call it a 27 lbs job, even though that's what it actually is. But it's not good PR to call your jobs the low number I guess... Now, this also has a bit to do with the reason for the extra 2 lbs. You start out with a certain tension on the mains (and here I would go for what the client requests). And then, depending on your personal style, equipment, PS settings, etc, you may do a square tension or you may add up to 10% on the crosses, to get the best result in frame geometry. Add to this, that some stringers are a bit sloppy, or their equipment is less precise or not maintained, so even with the same settings, they end up with higher or lower tensions on the strings. All in all, the only way to truly state the tension of a job, is using the frequency... But - alas - this method has other drawbacks, such as being dependent on string weight, head geometry and age of the job. So, we're back to the tensions again: Ask for a given tension (say 28 lbs), let the stringer do what he would normally do, and then check the resulting frequency, to see if your stringer is high or low compared to others. If you KNOW the frequency you are looking for (from a previous job at another stringer), you could give your stringer that number, and hope he knows what to do, in order to get the same result - chances are he doesn't, unless he is one of the string-nerds writing in this forum... Then - and this is important - forget all of the above, and simply play with the racket, see if you like it. If you do, fine, ask for the same tension next time. If not, ask for a lbs more or less.
In regards to why I think the short name for a string job tension, should always be the mains, here's my explaination: You do mains at tension 26 lbs. Then, you do crosses, in order to get the perfect shaped racket. Stringer A makes it square on his Yonex PT8 with Pre-stretch, and obtains the result he's looking for. Thus, a 26x26 lbs job - this cannot be called anything else than 26 lbs. Stringer B knows, that on his Premium Stringer with a Wise head, he needs to add 1 lbs in order to get the same shaped head. He does a 26x27 job. Stringer C, who works on a Pro's Pro 2-point crank machine, needs to add 2 lbs to avoid the resulting shape being too round. He does a 26x28 lbs job. All stringers have now applied the same tension on the mains, but, due to differences on their machines (and using PS and constant pull), they had to differ on the crosses, TO GET TO THE SAME RESULT. So, how can these jobs be anything but 26 lbs? If they actually applied higher resulting tensions on the crosses, to warrent a 27 or 28 lbs label on the job, the racket would have gone oval? I can understand that a stringer would be inclined to call a 26x28 lbs job = 27 lbs. But calling it 28 lbs (as many stringers do), can never be correct.
Summary: The goal should be a perfect shaped racket! 2 point machine = 10% more on cross? 6 point machine = same tension on main and cross? BUT in this video of a professional Yonex-stringer will recommend + 10% on the cross with a modern yonex stringing machine (minute 3.50). 20x22 = stringster app says 21lbs
@BadBadmintonPlayer you are the european Ferreriko! We have a few official Yonex stringer, who don't agree with that. I can tell you that the default at the Yonex German Open 2018 is +1lbs/0.4kg on the cross. I have seen several badminton rackets from pros. Alan reported about square, 1lbs and 2lbs added on cross, but never 10%. Take stringster with a pinch of salt and also the video. Most of this is not worth the skill of a YY stringer. E.g. the knots. I hit with stringster very often higher. I got often 15kg when I strung BG80Power at 13.5/14kg. Don't believe everything in the internet. I met Maurice last year at the YGO and he said that they did +0.5kg on the cross.
2:22 Does everyone pull the last two main strings together? I've always done them individually, so now unsure what the better way to do it is.
For Maurice's mention that of + 0.5kg (1.1lbs) for the crosses, did you remember what tension range this applied to? Curious to find a definitive answer for this issue as the Yonex official catalogues states 10% more for the crosses. In my own experiences, the worst happened with +0lbs on the crosses, +2 and +2.5lbs generally went well but i'm wondering if better setup exist
It was for professionals(they use above 30lbs) and I asked in general. To back it up, I have seen at the YGO this year that 14.4 was done on the cross for an european player. The booth has mainly ES5Pros which don't have the 0.5kg, so they do 0.4. I also had my hands on Yang Po-Han racket which was marked as 32/33. Maurice stand last year behind a Protech8 deluxe and said 0.5kg on cross. I didn't have seen 10% for ages. I did one once with 10% a few years ago and it came out of my machine like an egg.
It must vary from tournament to tournament. At the World Champs in August last year, I was talking to a Yonex stringer as he did Mogensen's Arcsaber 11. He said he had to follow the official Yonex instructions and add 10% to the crosses. From memory he was stringing 32x35. He also mentioned having to string the top 5 crosses at the same tension as the mains but added "if I remember to!"
If I take a look at this thread http://www.badmintoncentral.com/for...n-do-current-professionals-use.108711/page-14 2lbs and 1lbs and square are most common. This 10% rule is FME a very old thing for 2 point machines. Has anybody a 2017/2018 source that Yonex still recommends 10%? I didn't found anything on the YY website, but from my experience there is no need for anything higher than 2lbs on the cross to maintain the shape. Even my not high-end machine deliver perfect shape to unstrung frames with 1lbs on cross even past 30. Also the stringing instruction from other brands don't recommend more than 2lbs on the cross.
See page 28 of this 2017 yonex brochure. Recommends +10% on crosses, final 5 crosses strung at the same tension as the mains.
I doubt that any professional stringer strings this way and also doubt that any pro request this. My machine is not such a tank like the PT8deluxe and even if I do 2lbs on cross the racket becomes loose in my machine and will come out long. Doing 32-35.2 would turn any racket into an arrow Especially with such a powerful tensioner you will overcome any friction with 1lbs max. 2lbs on cross. What does panda think? @DinkAlot He do mortal tensions square.
I won't name the Yonex stringer I spoke to in Glasgow but I can say he invented a famous finishing knot. He gave me the impression that he didn't agree with Yonex's instructions to add 10% to the crosses but was under instruction to string this way.
Thank you for sharing these valuable insights What are your thoughts on compact quad shaped racquet head designs (eg: Z Speed, Z Force II, DG10, etc) ? Unlike conventional isometrics or ovals, they are shaped more like a symmetrical "0" shape.My current setups that seem to be performing well are: -29 lbs mains, 31 lbs cross -31 lbs mains, 33 lbs cross For my next stringjob rotation, i'm thinking of 29 x 31.5 and 30 x 33 ; do you think this is trending in the right direction? Conversely 31 x 32 or 30 x 31.5 might be a good 'middle ground' given that these yonex stringers are doing +1.1 lbs on the crosses On that note, I really do wonder what they do at the factory / shop when the available tension selection options only involve a single tension (no mains or cross, for example just 28lbs or 34 lbs). PS: As for official note on Yonex recommending +10% on the crosses, I believe its in their badminton catalogue, stringing section. I first saw it back in 2015 if I recall, and its been through several rewordings in 2016 and 2017, but the 10% figure remains the same. Its on the same page with the instructions stating different stringing patterns between the high end racquets and mid tier yonex racquets.
I agree, I'd never go more than +2lbs (0.9kg) on the crosses. However, doing plus 10% except for the top 5 strings (and button two?), would probably give you the same? And the differentiated tension would probably settle a bit when played? I've never tried this suggestion of going lower at the top. It seems counter intuitive, since the resistance on the pulls are increasing from button to top, as you work your way up (can be tested by a calibration tool). So if anything, I'd hold back on the first crosses pulled (in fact, I do this now, double pulling the first two, not to ruin the knot, then adding the extra 1 lbs - 1.5 lbs for the rest of the crosses)... Cheers, FB
Holding back on the top crosses is common as that is a particularly fragile area of the racket. It's one of the reasons some of us string top-down, you can pull a bit less on those crosses up there (I always double pull the first 2 anyway to protect the starting knot) and work flow is actually a bit better too, as you have more space at the bottom, and the end isn't as finicky as when you do a regular bottom-up job. I never do +10%, instead I go for +0,2-0,3kg and a 10% PS on the crosses to overcome the added friction. I'd adjust according to the machine to get the racket shape right, my guess is that a Yonex machine would have no need for the added tension, for example. Mine is not the very best, and a slowly grown mish-mash of adaptations and additions, but it works well enough and, importantly, very consistently.
