Badminton Central Guide to Stringing Tools

[what07]

Usually my customers are very nice and they are ppl who play in the same gym so rackets are exchanged there, or they'll dropoff and pickup from my home or work (need a day job for this hobby ). I'd only go out of my way to pickup or deliver a racket if it's conveniently near where I'm at that day.

This is exactly how things should be. If your going out of your way to pickup and drop off like a full time job but getting pennies. Probably should re-evaluate your position and status for part-time stringing if your doing more just to gain customers.

Most of my customers are happy to come to one of my 3 locations and the few that I can pickup on commute is also fine for me.

 

[xZhongCheng]

I kinda side with @kakinami on this one. If you are just stringing for yourself and for I guess "fun" that 1 minute time saving isn't such a big deal. Time is only a big deal if your paid by the hour and say what @slim416 was mentioning working in a shop/club where you would try to turn around as many as rackets as you can in short as amount at time and string costs means nothing since its the expense of the owner so you can basically pull as much string as you desire within reason.

But if its your full time job you basically have your own stringing hours and time and such. I think the 24 rackets over 20 is well worth it and its more savings/profit with more expensive strings.

$100 per reel but if you can do 24 rackets
instead of $5 per cost its say $4.2 per string cost (rounded up)
$0.8 x 24 = $19.2 (thats a lunch for me or a 25th string job of profit and some pocket change)

And I dunno why but I get a itch when I realize I pulled more string then I need to finish knotting. So my default is 2 knots and depending on the string, I can usually get 25 rackets sometimes 25.5 from a reel especially with bg66ultimax / bg80.

Getting 25 rackets out of a reel is crazy efficient. I believe the most I got to was 24.5
It does help when you get rackets that have a consistent head size so you dont need to adjust the string length as much.
I know rackets like Nanoflare 800 (Gen1), Victor Jetspeed S10, Li Ning Halbertecs, Yonex Z-force II use less string than most other rackets.

I don't do pick up or delivery for my customers unless it is along my commute. I do give them the option to drop off / pick up at my work during the weekday or at places i play regularly at but otherwise they just drop off and pick up at my place - i believe my prices are competitive enough that it makes it worthwhile for them to make the trek; if not, they will just found for another stringer that is closer

This is the right way. I used to have alot of people that would ask me to meet them in a non convenient location and I would turn them down everytime. Its not worth the hassle as its mainly a hobby for me back in the day

 

[samkool]

I don't do pick up or delivery for my customers unless it is along my commute.

I don't do pick up or delivery. i'm lazy.

 

[kaffars]

ALPHA Tennis & Badminton Starting Clamp ACC-292

ALPHA Tennis & Badminton Starting Clamp ACC-292 A professional starting clamp designed for both tennis and badminton stringing. Made of aerospace-grade aluminum, it provides durability and precision while ensuring the strings are securely clamped without damage. SPEC Material: Aerospace Aluminum...

e78shop.com

E78 have a yonex/touzioki clamp dupe for much cheaper.

 

[what07]

ALPHA Tennis & Badminton Starting Clamp ACC-292

ALPHA Tennis & Badminton Starting Clamp ACC-292 A professional starting clamp designed for both tennis and badminton stringing. Made of aerospace-grade aluminum, it provides durability and precision while ensuring the strings are securely clamped without damage. SPEC Material: Aerospace Aluminum...

e78shop.com

E78 have a yonex/touzioki clamp dupe for much cheaper.

Oooo its starting to look just like the touzioki one. I never seen the black one listed on the aliexpress store in stock tho.

Looks like they added a recessed portion underneath the adjustment knob.

2 holes to the bottom of the clamp as well, honestly I didnt know what those holes are used for. Hanging the clamp with some string?

Looks pretty slick, really like how the adjustment knob was easy to turn....but it was too easy on mine so every release would gradually make it looser and looser.

Hope they improved the gripping plates, mine consistently dents Z61 very badly and 2 times cut underload

 

[DarthHowie]

2 holes to the bottom of the clamp as well, honestly I didnt know what those holes are used for. Hanging the clamp with some string?
Looks pretty slick, really like how the adjustment knob was easy to turn....but it was too easy on mine so every release would gradually make it looser and looser.

I was thinking the exact same thing to just feed a string to hang my clamp.
At least the price is reasonable for those that can't afford the toyozouki one, but i hope it's at least comparable in quality.

For those wondering, I don't use my toyozouki as an extender as it's more convenient and easier to open/close with one hand a standard starting clamp (double spring). I only use my toyozouki when I clamp (with pad) against the outside of the frame when starting the first bottom cross. I tension 3 crosses, then go back to the 1st cross, re-tension, remove starting clamp, clamp with regular fixed, then tie off (no starting knots).

 

[what07]

I was thinking the exact same thing to just feed a string to hang my clamp.
At least the price is reasonable for those that can't afford the toyozouki one, but i hope it's at least comparable in quality.

For those wondering, I don't use my toyozouki as an extender as it's more convenient and easier to open/close with one hand a standard starting clamp (double spring). I only use my toyozouki when I clamp (with pad) against the outside of the frame when starting the first bottom cross. I tension 3 crosses, then go back to the 1st cross, re-tension, remove starting clamp, clamp with regular fixed, then tie off (no starting knots).

The good thing I like about the Alpha's one is that the clamp plates are all even from top to bottom, but that doesn't really matter if it shreds / damages the string Still can't find a non-scary adjustment setting. It feels like I have to adjust the knob for every job if it varies in string diameter or tension.

I honestly use the 2 spring starting clamp to start crosses or to hold the string just because I literally can't seem to flip the lever after locking it because I don't think ahead and put it in the wrong orientation on the frame

I do like the spring starting clamps too! much lighter, But I have the new alpha one that is larger and curvy just sitting in a box atm ;s And only use the tiny one for knotting because its so tiny.

Honestly I wrapped my toyozuoki starting clamp with grip tape so that it doesnt' dent my table and put some like gel like pads around the sides so it does the same :S

 

[kwun]

For those wondering, I don't use my toyozouki as an extender as it's more convenient and easier to open/close with one hand a standard starting clamp (double spring). I only use my toyozouki when I clamp (with pad) against the outside of the frame when starting the first bottom cross. I tension 3 crosses, then go back to the 1st cross, re-tension, remove starting clamp, clamp with regular fixed, then tie off (no starting knots).

I am curious why is that better than directly pulling 1st string with starting knot?

 

[xZhongCheng]

I am curious why is that better than directly pulling 1st string with starting knot?

This isnt a good idea in my experience. This can break the anchor string, especially when using high tensions.

I always double pull on the first 2 crosses with halim's starting knot. I've set the cross tension to as high as 33lb and its always worked fine. The starting knot is thick enough that it doesnt sink into the grommet and tensioning it doesnt make the knot bite into the anchor string.

 

[DarthHowie]

I am curious why is that better than directly pulling 1st string with starting knot?

Never said better. I just prefer this vs pulling against a starting knot (not ruling out me having not a good starting knot). A small handful of main strings popping from the knot being pulled 28-30 lbs against the knot was enough for me to look at alternatives which was why the Waroo approach caught my attention.

Obviously i use the starting clamp as i find it doesn't overcomplicate things and fits my own flow.

This isnt a good idea in my experience. This can break the anchor string, especially when using high tensions.

I always double pull on the first 2 crosses with halim's starting knot. I've set the cross tension to as high as 33lb and its always worked fine. The starting knot is thick enough that it doesnt sink into the grommet and tensioning it doesnt make the knot bite into the anchor string.

Agreed. Prior to my current approach I would also double pull the first 2 crosses.

Definitely don't want sunken knots. I just use the gudgeon knot for all mine, not bulky, nice "tail" and they're all tie offs in a 2 piece.
Cosmetically pleasing yet still maintaining consistent tension.

I would not say one method is better than other, just my personal preference based on my skill (or lack of) and confidence (or lack of).

 

[slim416]

I was thinking the exact same thing to just feed a string to hang my clamp.
At least the price is reasonable for those that can't afford the toyozouki one, but i hope it's at least comparable in quality.

For those wondering, I don't use my toyozouki as an extender as it's more convenient and easier to open/close with one hand a standard starting clamp (double spring). I only use my toyozouki when I clamp (with pad) against the outside of the frame when starting the first bottom cross. I tension 3 crosses, then go back to the 1st cross, re-tension, remove starting clamp, clamp with regular fixed, then tie off (no starting knots).

I do the same with my toyozouki starting clamps - I only use it as a starting clamp (for both mains and crosses), I used a generic red handled, two spring starting clamp as an extender when needed, It works well, and opens easily while still gripping strings well without slippage (lucky to find a good copy), and it is much more conventient to have a dedicated one for extended with the string in the hole all the time. I have a new silver yonex starting clamp that came with my precision 3.2, but no need to use that one yet, as the red starting clamp works well for how I use it.

I switched to using a starting clamp for starting the mains (similar to how Mark Lawrence does) as i felt there was a bit of stack from pulling two strings at once and pulling that next string doesn't always make up for this slack - depends on how sensitive your machine is though - the wise was much better for this as it pulls as soon as tension drops 0.1 lb below the set tension. In reality, probably not any noticeable difference, but i feel more at "peace" knowing i pulled both center mains to spec.

I stopped using starting knots once thinner strings like 0.61mm strings became a thing; the need to build a bulky starting knot with super thin strings was more work and used more strings, and not always guaranteed to prevent it from pulling on the main string or pulling through. I used to use a modified starting knot that worked for me before (not sure what it was called) that used the starting clamp to hold the knot while being pulled. I switched to using a starting clamp now it just simpify things for me; it's been working well, and i don;t have to over think the knot itself as it is the same knot as the other tie off. The toyozouki starting clamp has also been super reliable for me for this purpose,

if i didn't have the toyozouki starting clamp, would my approach be different - probably. Everyone will have to tailor their approach and technique to what works best for them and their equipment. I know my technique has evolved over time, some of that is from learning and experimenting, but a lot of that also has to do with the fact I had 5 different machines / setups over the years.

 

[kakinami]

I do the same with my toyozouki starting clamps - I only use it as a starting clamp (for both mains and crosses), I used a generic red handled, two spring starting clamp as an extender when needed, It works well, and opens easily while still gripping strings well without slippage (lucky to find a good copy), and it is much more conventient to have a dedicated one for extended with the string in the hole all the time. I have a new silver yonex starting clamp that came with my precision 3.2, but no need to use that one yet, as the red starting clamp works well for how I use it.

I switched to using a starting clamp for starting the mains (similar to how Mark Lawrence does) as i felt there was a bit of stack from pulling two strings at once and pulling that next string doesn't always make up for this slack - depends on how sensitive your machine is though - the wise was much better for this as it pulls as soon as tension drops 0.1 lb below the set tension. In reality, probably not any noticeable difference, but i feel more at "peace" knowing i pulled both center mains to spec.

I stopped using starting knots once thinner strings like 0.61mm strings became a thing; the need to build a bulky starting knot with super thin strings was more work and used more strings, and not always guaranteed to prevent it from pulling on the main string or pulling through. I used to use a modified starting knot that worked for me before (not sure what it was called) that used the starting clamp to hold the knot while being pulled. I switched to using a starting clamp now it just simpify things for me; it's been working well, and i don;t have to over think the knot itself as it is the same knot as the other tie off. The toyozouki starting clamp has also been super reliable for me for this purpose,

if i didn't have the toyozouki starting clamp, would my approach be different - probably. Everyone will have to tailor their approach and technique to what works best for them and their equipment. I know my technique has evolved over time, some of that is from learning and experimenting, but a lot of that also has to do with the fact I had 5 different machines / setups over the years.

Have you seen my WaRoo modified starting method? Any thoughts on that?

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

[kakinami]

I am curious why is that better than directly pulling 1st string with starting knot?

If you pull on a starting knot you pull tension on the main string, no? I know you probably dont have any customers asking for 35 pounds or more, but say on your crosses when you finish and tie your knot, isn't it better to tie a finishing knot and not have any extra tension pulled on it? Maybe say the torque of your knot is 20 pounds but you add an extra say 7 pounds if you maybe pull 2, well maybe should ask have you ever tried stringing at 35+ pounds? I feel less stress on my knot if I use a finishing knot than more torque using a starting knot. If it is good for high tensions, why can't it be good for lower tensions too? Might be an extra step to take more time, but I feel more confident about my string jobs using finishing knots. I do it with a tennis racket, why not a badminton racket? =)

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

[kakinami]

ALPHA Tennis & Badminton Starting Clamp ACC-292

ALPHA Tennis & Badminton Starting Clamp ACC-292 A professional starting clamp designed for both tennis and badminton stringing. Made of aerospace-grade aluminum, it provides durability and precision while ensuring the strings are securely clamped without damage. SPEC Material: Aerospace Aluminum...

e78shop.com

E78 have a yonex/touzioki clamp dupe for much cheaper.

I was wondering if anyone has bought one and what do they think of it?
Thanks!!

 

[Brunoille]

It's a preorder, and seems fairly new (I checked e78 website recently and didn’t come across it)... Still, I haven't found any other source for it

 

[slim416]

Have you seen my WaRoo modified starting method? Any thoughts on that?

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

I saw the original video from waroo himself - don't think i saw your video of the modified method though. I used a similar method as Waroo to start my mains many years ago, before I got my starting clamp, but didn't do that to start the crosses.

I showed the waroo method to my friend, who is still fairly new to stringing and is afraid of using a starting clamp. I think it is a good alternative to using a starting clamp, but it really depends on your machine and the quality of your clamps - not everyone is blessed with a high-end toyozouki or modern exthree machine. Using the fixed clamps as a starting clamp does put a bit of stress on them - you also have to make sure the base is tightened properly. if the clamps move or rotate while pulling, it can damage the string. Some clamps also have sharp edges on the side, and if they rotate a bit, it can snap the strings,

Earlier this year, I was asked to observe a couple of stringers and provide some feedback as they were getting some complaints about their stringing. They had an older electronic Gamma machine that had seen better days (8800 ELS i think) and a new Victor C-7032 Ultra that they got a couple of months ago. The bases of the clamps were not adjusted properly, and they would move and rotate 180 degress if you pulled tension directly on them; even when locked, you could rotate the clamps by hand it!

They amazingly had strung hundreds of rackets with these loose clamps and never noticed, as they never pulled tension directly from the clamps - i was showing them an alternative starting method for the mains (similar to the waroo method) as the starting clamp they had didn't seem that reliable. I couldn't believe how loose they were, especially for a machine that was only a few months old. i don't believe it would have left the factory like this, so it might have gotten loose during shipping.

Regardless of what machine you have, it is important to maintain it and make sure everything is calibrated and adjusted properly, especially if you are pulling tension directly on the clamps (like the waroo method);

 

[Gavin97]

My current set of tools I am using to string rackets - (from left to right)
Yonex Starting Clamp
Chopstick for straighten strings after
GT MP-93 Flat Nose Pliers (the grip on the 93 was breaking so ended up changing it to the 94 I previously bought)
GT MP-230 Cutters
Yonex Starting Clamp
Kimony String Bed Cutters
Pro's Pro Awl
UniBall POSCA Pen for marking on the back of reels

If there's any tool that I should purchase, please let me know! Thank you for looking!

 

[slim416]

View attachment 205581
My current set of tools I am using to string rackets - (from left to right)
Yonex Starting Clamp
Chopstick for straighten strings after
GT MP-93 Flat Nose Pliers (the grip on the 93 was breaking so ended up changing it to the 94 I previously bought)
GT MP-230 Cutters
Yonex Starting Clamp
Kimony String Bed Cutters
Pro's Pro Awl
UniBall POSCA Pen for marking on the back of reels

If there's any tool that I should purchase, please let me know! Thank you for looking!

For me, the grommet remover is one tool I used all the time - but I am a big advocate of replacing grommets. I have the Yonex one, but i don't see it in their catalog; might be discontinued. In addition to the grommet remover, i also have few different grommet flarer for the shared grommets.

If you are planning to use the Yonex starting clamp as a starting clamp, than i would look are getting something like piece of leather to use between the frame and starting clamp to protect the frame from getting scratched up by the starting clamp. I use the fancy Parnell Pad but a piece of leather or rubber works as well.

Your awl looks a bit thick to me for a badminton awl but maybe that is because there is no other awls to reference it to.

 

[Brunoille]

I was wondering if anyone has bought one and what do they think of it?
Thanks!!

Found it on taobao! .... but I don't know how to buy on Taobao

 

[Rittersport]

This was with the Exbolt 65. I'll try to use it with the BG65

This thing finally broke. I have been using this one since May. It is surprisingly tough !