Klipper M140 Stringing Instruction

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by silentheart, Jun 6, 2007.

  1. Frosty

    Frosty Regular Member

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    I am wondering whats the proper way of securing the frame in regards to the two thick metal support .

    For me , if I position the the two support right against the top and bottom inner part of the frame , it either presses against the grommets completely or is in the way of the strings . Shouldn't the support only be pressing against the frame itself ?

    For the time being , I have added load spreaders to counteract this problem .

    Please do let me know if I have misused the support in any way .
     
  2. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Please take a picture and show what you are talking about the metal supports?
    Are you talking about the 2 bolts or the holder (the holder is plastic with leather pats)
    Also take a picture of how you position the load spreader.
     
  3. Frosty

    Frosty Regular Member

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    Yeap , I mean the bolts . Their dimension seem too thick and thus get in the way. I now position the load spreaders between the bolt and the frame .

    Will take the pictures when I get home after work .
     
  4. Frosty

    Frosty Regular Member

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    Photo3892.jpg

    This is where I place the load spreaders ( I do the same for the top of the frame ) . I am not sure if this is the proper way , but at least it eliminates the problem of the thick bolts pushing against the grommets instead of the frame when I secure the frame onto the mount points .
    But I would presume that this kinda setup shouldn't be needed .

    How do u guys manage it ?
     
  5. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    please see attached pictures. but your set up with load spreader is fine too. no worry.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    Nice load spreader setups there!!! Keep the photos coming :)
     
  7. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Yes, Master LSD. You use load spreader to spread your loads right? :confused::eek::D
     
  8. Frosty

    Frosty Regular Member

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    Thanks SH !

    I found out there are a couple of problems with using load spreaders on this machine .

    First, by adding a load spreader at the top of the frame, it makes it impossible to do a double pull and clamp the first two cross strings ( assuming the method of the starting cross knot at the 6th top grommet is used ) since the first cross string will be covered/hidden by the holder ( plates ) .

    Secondly, since the frame mass which is secured by the holders is reduced ( result of the racket protruding out more because of the load spreader ), it does not seem to be held as securely as I would like, especially when I am doing the crosses .

    So in the end, I went back to not using any load spreaders. Just clipped the protruding part of the four center main grommets and slided a small piece of hard plastic between the frame and bolt .
     
  9. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    I believe the cushion pad already serve the purpose as the spreader (if you mount the frame correctly against the black portion, and secure the 2 pieces of cushion together tight enough). You should NEVER mount the frame directly against the support (bolt). It will either damage (scratch) the frame, and/or result in below-average string job (usually narrower frame).
     
    #189 LazyBuddy, Aug 5, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2011
  10. Frosty

    Frosty Regular Member

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    Thanks !
    I peeled off a few thin layers off the cushion and now the frame fits snugly between the two plates .

    Another thing, has anyone had their M140's tension accuracy off by some margin, say around 5lbs ? Asking because I just tested the tension using a gauge ( got from mybadmintonstore ) and it seems like mine is off by ~ 5lbs less . When did I my test, 25lbs on the tension head would show 20lbs according to the gauge .Will try to source for another gauge ( maybe one used for fishing ? ) to determine .

    Here's how I used the gauge, just in case I was wrong .
    Thread a string at one end of the gauge and secured it with a clamp, with the clamp against the outside of the mount plate . Tie another string at the other end and tension away .
     
  11. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Unless your tension weight is badly damaged, it should never off by that much. When you test, make sure the gauge is calibrated (by measure 1 or 2 L of water or so). Then make sure whatever your setup is, the pulling is horizontally, but not with a significant angle.
     
  12. Frosty

    Frosty Regular Member

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    Did a couple more tests. The gauge was accurate, tested with a 10KG dumbbell plate.

    Just found out the problem was with me misreading the tension scale decal on the rod. The unit of the "25" I used , at least according to the decal, during my initial tension tests were actually in "kg" instead of "lbs", which was not the case after tests with the gauge .

    Which means now I have to always add ~ 5lbs on top of the tension if I want to follow the tension scale on the decal and I should be refering to the one which states the unit as "kg". This should produce the tension I want.

    Anyone else had this problem ?
     
  13. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    I think I know your problem after I took a look at my machine, and let me try to explain to the best I can. Once the leveler is set up (about 50' or so), you should read the scale against the lower right side, which have a big black arrow pointing to the scales. If you are reading the upper left side, or when you setup the machine, you mount the weight in the opposite way, then your reading will surely off by a few lbs.
     
  14. mg27

    mg27 Regular Member

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    Has anyone had success in pre-weaving via 2-piece stringing with the KM? I think SH said that it isn't possible due to the design of the KM. But I just wanted to know for sure.
     
  15. Frosty

    Frosty Regular Member

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    Just wondering, how long do you guys normally leave the tension bar to "settle" or "sit" while tensioning each string?
    A)clamp and release the tension bar immediately after the tension bar stops dropping.
    OR
    B)continue to let it sit there for extra seconds before clamping and release the tension?
     
  16. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Not with 1 set of string and not with center out. If you can, you are doing something wrong.
     
  17. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    It is more like B) in your option. What I usually do is to leave the tension bar sit while I weave the next string. I will suggest you do this once you can weave the cross in less than 30 sec. Do the same for the main. but it is OK since it will usually take 10~15 sec in normal setting.
     
  18. Frosty

    Frosty Regular Member

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    Thanks for the input.
    The reason for asking was because I have been testing the different outcome caused by letting the tension sit between short period ( less than 30 seconds ) and longer period ( 45 to 60 seconds ). On court testing favours the string job with shorter tension period ( feels livelier. Not too vague, I hope ), at least for me.

    Wondering if theres such a thing as leaving the string tensioned for too long?
     
  19. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Personally, I think leave it for 30 sec or more is an overkill. I usually do no more than 10 to 15 sec for most of the tension, but do go for 20 or so for the last pieces.
     
  20. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    here is silentheart's Klippermate tutorial!

    sorry for taking so long to upload this. i just figure out how to get my youtube account to accept >15mins videos...:eek:

    [video=youtube;A-n-FVyFilQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-n-FVyFilQ[/video]
     

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