Klipper M140 Stringing Instruction

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by silentheart, Jun 6, 2007.

  1. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    Hi [MENTION=6976]silentheart[/MENTION] and @LazyBuddy , 1) any trick to get the weight bar perfectly leveled? I believe the 1 and a half inch thing mentioned in the manual is for tennis racket; that's too much error for badminton racket that has lower tension to begin with. 2) do you guys follow the manual to clean the jaws for every 6 rackets? 3) the stringing jobs I did on M140 yield consistently lower tension compared with local stringing shop's work. Do you guys experience the same thing? Thank you in advance.
     
  2. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Hi Wguan126,
    1) I did tested a while back when I first got the M140. I used a double sided tape to tape a bubble level on the bar near the 30lb mark (please note, with badminton weight, you are using 75lb mark for 25lb). In the manual, it mention 1 inch at the tip to the perfect level is not very good imho. It is not because of badminton racquet has use lower tension. When you are more familiar with your machine, you will find the little tricks to get the bar to close to level. For me, if i am about 1 in high, I would just lift the bar up about 45 to 60 degree and let it down slowly. It will level on the second drop. What this does is equivalent of per-stretching.
    2) No, I clean it every 6 month. Please note, during the high season, I was stringing 15 racquets 1 week with the M140.
    3) Please use the formula for badminton tension, not their conversion chart. For example, with badminton weight-
    18lb: 18*3=56lb mark on tennis scale
    20lb: 20*3=60lb mark
    23lb: 23*3=69lb mark
    26lb: 26*3=72lb mark.
    Please note, do not go above 26lb until you are very familiar and can string a racquet under 45 min. With M140, I will not go above 10% over the recommended tension without additional support.
    Good luck.
     
  3. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    Hi [MENTION=6976]silentheart[/MENTION], 1) you meant "10% over the recommended" max tension for the racket, right? 2) Which difference between main and cross do you prefer, 10% or 2 lbs more and why? which one yields string bed with more consistent tension? And last question, hopefully I can make myself clear for this one: whichever difference between main and cross you use (either 10% or 2 lbs), what are the resulting tensions on main and cross? For example, if you do 23x25, what is the end result, 24x25, 25x25? I know you can subjectively measure them, but you should have some feelings from playing and feedbacks from your clients, I assume. Thank you in advance.
     
  4. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Hi Wguan126,
    1) For example, NR500 has max recommended tension of 24lb from Yonex. The highest I will go without notify user will be 26.5lb (24*1.1=26.4).
    2) It depend. Here is my question to you. Will you be able to tell the difference of 0.5lb tension? So, if the user is asking for 23lb, I use 21x23lb. if the user ask for 25lb, I use 22.66x25. for 27lb, I use 24.5x27. In general, for M140, I recommend use 2lb diff unless it is higher than 27lb. Just easier on your math.
    3) Does it matter? The tension is just a reference point for a stringer. Drop weight 25 lb is different than crank 25lb. Unless both stringing person has same model machine. Even the same model crank machine will have variant due to the use and maintenance. unless you are comparing stringer A uses Yonex ESPro5tech vs Wilson Baiardo, then you can tell both stringer the same tension and method and come up with same result. My 25lb will be different than another local stringer's 25lb. It is for you to experience the tension yourself and come to the best tension you use for your machine.
    Here is a side story. I have player loves Baiardo string job. I have 2 players specific ask me to use M140 to string up their racquet because it fell more natural. Most of the players just give me their racquets and tension and let me do my thing. Go figure...
     
  5. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    OK. after stringing 3 rackets, on the 4th one, i had to clean the tension jaw to eliminate slippage. If you see the following, it probably means you need to clean your tension jaw: after the tension bar is leveled, it suddenly drops 5-20 degrees; how much it drops depends on how much slippage occurs.
     
  6. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    Hi [MENTION=6976]silentheart[/MENTION], where did you get the formula? I thoroughly checked the manual, and did not find it. Out of your own experience? Thanks.
     
  7. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    I ran a calibration not too long after I got my M140. That is exactly what I find. I spoke to Dave at klipperUSA and they confirm my finding and told me the chart is for people's easier use, no need for conversion formula. it is easier for me to *3. It also give me option of going with 1/6 lb increment.
     
  8. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    Hi [MENTION=6976]silentheart[/MENTION], To your 3rd answer, I have to say 25 lbs means 25 lbs. Each machine will be off to a certain degree for sure, but we all shall strive to achieve THE 25 lbs, by using fishing scale, dumb bell, or whatever reference point to you'd like to tie to. So players and stringers can communicate with each other, imho.
     
  9. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    There was a long discussion on this before and I am not going to agree or disagree with your point. Yes, every "good" stringer "should" know their machine and calibrate their machine. But if you ask any shop with a crank machine, they all have their explanations. I know my M140 string result pull the same tension on the string as my Baiardo. Yes, I also calibrate machine for shops professionally and I see range different up to 8 lb on crank (for tennis racquet). But due to the mounting and how I leave the string on tension head, it feels differently.
    Again, unless both stringer has $4,000+ electric machine, then you tell them to string 23X25.3lb with 2 piece method and expect to have very similar feeling and play. If both have crank machine, you have a crap shoot. If 2 different types of machine, no comparison.
     
  10. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Sorry to join the discussion too late, and seems SH already answered most of the questions.

    Personally, I believe the new design of M140 jaw indeed appear to be more slippery than the old design. I have both, and can definitelly tell the differences. A suggestion to avoid frequently clean needs, is that you can use a microfiber towel to "rub" the string, before usage. Just be careful not pulling string too fast, to avoid string damage or even injury to hand. It will remove some chemicals from the string, which means less will be stuck on the jaw. In additional, use a toothbrush with alcohol (or whatever reasonable cleaner) to brush through the jaw teeth when you clean. Usually, such combo should give you a decent 8-10 jobs at least, before you notice the slippage. Of course, tension and type of strings will also need to be considered.
     
  11. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    Thanks LazyBuddy!
     
  12. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Thank you LB. You are more helpful than I am as usual... I been using my M140 for the last 8 years and I did not know about the new jaw or the great white.
     
  13. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    I found starting clamp is not so good for staring mains. The starting pin method is better. With 2 plates there is very little room for a starting clamp. I even damaged a string while using a starting clamp to start mains tonight. How do u guys start mains on m140 nowadays?
     
  14. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    just learned that Klipper m140 is equipped with genuine HQ clamps nowadays. I was debating with myself about whether to upgrade to a pair of genuine HQ clamps, not knowing what I have are genuine HQ clamps. LOL!!!!!
     
  15. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Ok, I guess I joined this conversation another 100 days too late. :-D The new jaw has different design, and suppose to be a perfect pair with the new machine (with new bar?) Since I am using my 10+ years old machine, the new jaw tends to be a bit more slippery than the old one. This might to do with somewhere the design is different by 1mm or 2.
     
  16. PinkDawg

    PinkDawg Regular Member

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    Did you guys buy the stand for the klippermate? Are there any other good alternatives? Thanks
     
  17. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    IMHO, the stand is not worth it. I will suggest you go to Homedepot or Lowes and get a cheap stand. I would almost suggest you to build one base on your height.
     
  18. wguan126

    wguan126 Regular Member

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    1. I don't see the need to have a stand if you don't need to take it with you to the court.
    2. By far, this is the cheapest on the market as far as I know. Last but not least, it will last.
     

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