Like in the subject already asked. .. Whats considered as a high or low tension racket?? It seems here everybody has a high tension if you ask me... I think I'm going for 22 x 24 lbs. What are your preferences? ? And why?? Greetings Erik.
Hmm. Good question. I'd consider "normal" tensions as 22-26 lbs (10-12 kg). Below would be low tension (only for children and beginners). Above would be high (only for experts). We tendens to think of better players, and forgot about the millions of people who don't need more than 10 kg in their rackets. They are not the interesting ones from a string or stringer perspective... But they are by far the largest group.
I consider myself not as a beginner, but at my club almost nobody play's with a higher tension than 11 kg... Maybe that's why I asked... Because if you here asked for a tension above 11kg everybody thinks your nuts, but here I only hear people talking from 24lbs wich is nearly 11kg... Is it true that with a string like the li-ning no.1 the higher the tension the less powerfull if your not a very powerfull player? What is a good time to get a higher tension.. When you clear and all shuttles go out?? Do we play wich such low tensions here... Is there a difference between the Netherlands and for acsample Asia... I must say we play here with nylon about 80%... Sorry for the many questions. ...
Plastic birds will need 2 lbs less and thicker string. Otherwise the impact is harsh and there's less power. Another factor affecting choice of tension is ambient temperature and humidity. In Asia where both are high, higher tensions are needed. Finally consistency in hitting sweetspot and swing speed, if you're good, then higher tensions allow crispier do more satisfying shots.
So when I want to play with the No 1 from li-ning here in europe with nylon, to begin with a tension of 22x24 should be a good start??
Yes. This is true for all strings. So going for higher tensions should be in order to: - Make it easier to put the right amount of power into the shot (better consistency on your lifts, defensive shots, push drops, etc.) - Get more precision, faster reactions and better "bite" from your string bed. - ...And you have plenty of power to begin with, consistently hit the sweet spot, don't play plastics and are not prone to a shoulder or elbow injury.
well, a high tension stringing requires more strength to control the racquet, it is because a high tension racket is lack of elasticity, therefore you need more strength to hit the shuttle, a low tension stringing means that it has a good elasticity, therefore you doesn't need so much effort to hit the shuttle, because the elasticity of the string helps you by giving repulsion.
IMO it is just a point of view and can't be general rule. FME some strings and higher tensions performs better than others. Some strings are really awesome at lower tensions. My customers normally go for something between 21 and 33lbs. Don't mind about numbers here. The guy with the highest tension don't win. Just go for that what you are comfortable with and used to. If low, mid or high it doesn't matter, just how you perform on court. A lot people suggest tensions related to levels. But the level depends also on the point of view. IMO it is not very helpful. I think the best way is to discover. To note that the biggest piece of the cake are the 21-23lbs is that in my country a lot people have a bad access to stringers, play plastics and must sometimes wait long time for a restring. They also don't have 2 or 3 rackets of the same model in their bag. They have a good one as main racket and a cheap and unloved spare. That these guys don't choose something higher is against their nature. Especially the older ones don't like to experiment. While my younger customers normally go for different strings and tension, I know guys who pee in their pants when they just think about increasing by a single lbs or change from BG65 to something different.
Then I think a good point to start from is 22x24 with the (I've read some good things about it) no 1. Li-ning... Is this string thick enough for plastics... (With a thinner string you should have some more feel than a thicker one... I want to buy a new racket wich is a bit forgiving so not ultra stiff and with some head heavyness... Then it should be okay I think....??
It's a thin string but it's one of if not the best, and has good durability. To start with I'd just go with an even 23. There's no real reason to use a difference in tension that low.
Allright and why is it with more tension useful of adding 2lbs on the cross but with low not so useful? I already heared it was a good one, I'm tempting to try it out... I've used the zymax 65 and 67 before, what are the main diggerences between the two??
Heheheh - I doubt any two answers here will be the same. I consider 30 low and 35 high, but that's me - I'm mental. As to why people here seem to favour higher tension... this is an enthusiast forum, and enthusiasts tend to play better than casuals, and better players tend to end up with higher tensions.
Hehe, then I m the enthusiast that's maybe not that good and play not that much better, but what do I love that game, and missed it the last 2 years, and maybe I will never play with a higher tension than 23lbs but I know already now I'm having a lot of fun on court....
Well, the crosses will tighten the mains a bit as they're weaved and tightened. However, the better reason would be to avoid deforming the frame. When you put high tension on the frame it can change the shape a bit, and because mains come first, if you do a 30x30 normally you can (but not always) end up with a very short but wide racket. In either scenario, your strings are loose enough for the tension difference not to matter, and they're low enough not to deform the frame.
I thought it was good for every tension to avoid the deforming of the frame... Just like when you snap a string you cuts the strings immediately to prevent it from deforming the frame...
Nah it's not so important at lower tensions. Cutting the strings is a bit different because you'd have a rogue gap in tension on the frame where the string has snapped, so that's like having 0 tension and maybe 30% tension in the surrounding strings, which is a very big difference. 2lbs difference at 22-24lbs is negligible.
Oooh than I will go for 23lbs as well for the crosses... Not knowing wich racket I should buy, but I know I will string it with the no1 feom li-ning... Does somebody kniws the differences between the no1 and the zymax zm65 /67...